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LS1 Engine/Transmission SWAP FAQ
Created by: blahster of CamaroZ28.com and LS1Tech.com
This swap was completed utilizing the following 2 cars: my 1995 Camaro Z28(recipient) and my brother’s wrecked 1999 Camaro Z28(where ALL my parts came from) Highly Recommended to have a parts car available…. J
This Guide is designed as reference not as pure truth….
This Guide will vary somewhat between different years(especially wiring)…
All information in this guide was gathered from the forums at CamaroZ28.com and LS1Tech.com and from shbox.com. A big thanks to all the guys/gals on those forums and to shbox.
Parts List: (incomplete) Required:
LS1 Engine
LS1 Transmission (unless converting to different transmission)
LS1 K-Member (unless transplanting engine in non-Fbody)
LS1 Engine Wiring Harness
Extra Connectors (unless wiring in directly)
LT1 Transmission Crossmember
Parts List: (incomplete) Not Required, but HIGHLY recommended
Aftermarket Tachometer with 4 Cylinder Option
Autometer Programmable Fuel Level Gauge(if swapping to LS1 fuel system)
PCM Reprogramming To correct EGR/AIR/Tach/Etc…..
Aftermarket Temp Gauge for Passenger Side Head
When I did this swap, I lopped off the connectors from the LT1 Engine Harness and the LS1 Engine Bay Harness so that I would not have to ruin the the LS1 Engine harness and LT1 interior harness. This provides me the ability to change back to an LT1 with little to no difficulty.
I also swapped the LS1 fuel system as well, which required the use of the programmable fuel level gauge. Autometer makes one for about $110.
The Transmission mount is not required, we used it so that we could mount the transmission to it, as it did not line up exactly with the LS1 trans mount. Most people who do this swap usually just lengthen the hole in the LT1 crossmember.
The Aftermarket Tach is a must, unless you get your PCM reprogrammed. The LT1 tach reads directly off the coil pack, which fires for all 8 Cylinders. The LS1 does not, it reads off of 1 bank of coils, therefore it reads only 4 cylinders. This will make the LT1 tach read half of what is normally seen.
This swap took me 4 days to get most everything running correctly, minus a few wiring issues. This is after having spent 2 days stripping the 99 Camaro down to frame/body.
This guide is also basic at this point, revisions will come once I get everything finalized.
Items to be Completed as of writing this guide:
ABS Hooked Up (front wheel speed sensors were too short and passenger side is completely missing….????)
PCM Reprogrammed for EGR/AIR/Tach/Etc…….
And now for the Good Stuff …J
On the recipient fbody:
Unhook battery and remove from vehicle.
Drain Coolant System.
Drain Oil(not really necessary)
Drain Trans Oil(unless you have a plug)
Drain Air Conditioning System(BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BREATHE THE GAS!!!)
Once the coolant has been completely drained, remove the coolant hoses from the waterpump and radiator.
Remove Radiator and A/C Condenser and Fans Assembly. Set off to the side.
Unbolt Power Steering Pump from engine bay and somehow keep it on the engine.(Unless you feel like draining it…I didn’t.)
Unbolt PCM and pull out.
On passenger side interior, remove kick panel. Locate the harness that is going thru the firewall and unplug all the connectors on that harness. Should be 3 plugs. A blue one(230), a white one(220), and a black one(210).
In Engine bay, disconnect the 2 plugs that are next to the PCM (not ON the PCM.)
Pull harness thru the firewall and place PCM/harness on top of engine.
Disconnect brake lines from the ABS block. Locate the 2 lines that lead to the front 2 wheels. Do not disconnect the lines going to the rear brakes.
Disconnect Engine Ground from chassis on driver side, directly under the ABS block.
Place a hydraulic jack under the middle section of the k-member. Also place another hydraulic Jack under the transmission pan(I recommend using a piece of wood to support the pan so that it will not become dented).
Disconnect Steering Linkage.
Disconnect fuel system lines from Fuel Rails, using a Fuel Line Disconnect tool. Also, be sure to have some rags underneath the connections, so that you don’t have an ugly mess to clean up.
Disconnect Throttle Cables.
Disconnect the wheel speed sensors.
Remove Driveshaft. (11mm on rear U-joint)
Remove 4 transmission crossmember bolts. (15mm)
Disconnect the shifter linkage from transmission and set aside, by removing the 2 bolts on transmission pan that hold the linkage on. I think they are 11mm.
Remove 2 Sway Bar Bushing Bolts (each side) (13mm) No need to remove sway bar.
Loosen 3 K-member Bolts on Each side (18mm Socket)
Now you have 2 options. First: you can install a strut tower brace to lift the body, OR you can just hook a fairly long chain to the sway bar mounts. We used the sway bar mounts since this gave us an extra foot of cherry picker movement….
Now, lower the car to where the wheels are touching the ground. Remove the 4 shock tower bolts.
Leave it in this position, and lift the body using the cherry picker.
SLOWLY lift. Making sure that nothing catches or is still connected.
Once you have made sure that the engine is completely free of the body, continue to lift the body until it is high enough to clear the engine. I recommend placing a creeper underneath the transmission for easier moving, and also leaving the wheels attached.
Also, once it is high enough, if you feel confident enough that the car will not shift, place a couple jack stands under the car, so that you can move the cherry picker out of the way so you can easily move the engine/trans.
Once the engine has been removed and moved to a secure location, lift the engine and place on 3 jack stands. Once it is on the jack stands, then use an impact wrench and remove the wheels. Also, remove any suspension parts that you will want to re-use on the LS1 k-member.
Simply do the reverse of the above steps to put the LS1 engine in.
I highly recommend cleaning the engine bay and painting it before reinstalling the engine, as this is the perfect point to do it.
This is the part where the most difficulty in the swap comes in. Wiring, and hooking everything back up. Cooling, A/C. Etc. I did not keep A/C. If you want to keep the A/C then you will need to get the entire A/C system from an LS1 because they differ from LT1 to LS1.
From LS1Tech.com :
Also for Reference:
LT1(93-97) and LS1 (98) Fuel Level Sender: 0-90 ohms
LS1(99-02) Fuel Level Sender: 40-250 ohms.
You can buy a couple sets of resistors from radio shack and program the programmable fuel level gauge using resistors, so that you don’t have to guess on the actual fuel level in the tank(IF you swap to the LS1 fuel system)
OBD-2 Connector: On the LT1 Camaro the signal wire is on Pin 9. That needs to be moved to Pin 2. There are 2 screws holding the connector in place. A plastic holder holds the wires in place. Remove the wires and replace. OR you can just chop the wires and splice them together.
On the LS1 engine harness there are 3 underhood connectors vice the LT1’s 2 connectors. Extra plugs will be a VERY MUCH RECOMMENDED idea…. J
LT1 Wiring Desriptions:
Underhood:
C100: A – PNK – POWER FEED FROM INJECTOR FUSE 9
B – DKGN/WT – A/C CLUTCH RELAY CONTROL
C – DKGN - A/C CLUTCH SIGNAL
D – ORN – PCM BATT FROM PCM FUSE 8
F – BRN – POWER FEED FROM FANS/ACTUATORS FUSE 6
G – PINK – POWER FEED FROM IGN FUSE 11
H – DKBLU- COOLANT FAN RELAY CONTROL (2 & 3)
J – DKGN – COOLANT FAN RELAY CONTROL (1)
K – PNK – POWER FEED FROM INJ FUSE 10
C105: B – PNK – POWER FEED FROM INJ FUSE 10
Underdash:
C210: A –PPL – THEFT DETERRENT RELAY TO STARTER SOLENOID
B – BLK/WT – GROUND FEED TO FUEL PUMP RELAY
C220: A – RED – GENERATOR FEED TO INST CLUSTER
B – TAN – OIL PRESSURE FEED TO INST CLUSTER
F – TAN – SERIAL DATA SIGNAL
G - DKGN/WT – VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL
J – DKGN/WT – FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL
C230: B – BRN/WT – SERVICE ENGINE SOON INDICATOR FEED
C – WHT/BLK – DIAGNOSTIC REQUEST SIGNAL
D – WHITE – TACH SIGNAL TO CLUSTER
E – DKBLU- THEFT DETERRENT FUEL ENABLE FEED
F – DKGN/WT – A/C REQUEST SIGNAL
G – PNK – POWER FEED FROM PCM IGN FUSE 5
H – LTBLU/BLK – TCC SWITCHED POWER FEED
J – ORN/BLK – PNP FEED FROM TRANS POSITION SWITCH
Now, a couple of assumptions are being made as this is being written.
Assuming that you are using extra plugs
LT1 plugs -> extra plugs -> my wiring setup(below) <- extra plugs <- LS1 plugs
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LT1 |
LS1 |
LS1 |
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C100 |
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A |
C100 A |
C220 E |
GROUND |
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B |
C100 B |
C230 G |
GROUND |
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C |
C100 C |
C101 H |
GROUND |
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D |
C101 G |
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F |
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G |
C101 E |
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H |
C100 H |
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J |
C100 J |
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K |
C101 B |
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C105 |
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B |
C105 B |
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C220 |
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A |
ANY IGN VOLTAGE |
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B |
C220 A |
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F |
C230 K |
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G |
C220 K |
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J |
C101 D |
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C230 |
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B |
C230 B |
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C |
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D |
C105 G |
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E |
C230 E |
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F |
C230 F |
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G |
C100 G |
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H |
C220 D |
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J |
C220 K |
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C210 |
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A |
STARTER |
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B |
GROUND |
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I am fairly certain that this should provide the correct information for swapping a 99 into a 95.
All LT1 wiring information obtained from shbox.com
All LS1 wiring information obtained from LS1Tech.com
Any questions, please feel free to PM me on LS1Tech.com OR CamaroZ28.com under the username blahster
Also, if I am missing something or have something wrong, PLEASE contact me soonest.